Rioja has long stood as Spain’s benchmark: a Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa) spread across Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Oriental, writes James Robertson.
For decades, red Tempranillo aged in American oak defined the region’s style. Deep colour, soft tannins, vanilla spice and supple fruit. Yet as Spain’s broader wine scene evolves, Rioja has followed suit.
Winemakers are re-examining old vines, reviving once-ignored white grapes, and favouring precision and freshness over overt oak. Oak, Tempranillo and Viura still matter, but look closer and you’ll find a lot more.
This evolution doesn’t replace tradition, it extends it. The five wines below, three from Rioja and two from neighbouring regions, tell that story.
From classic Crianza to lees-aged Garnacha Blanca and a revived Albilla. Looking at Rioja first there are the three regions –
• Rioja Alta – cooler and higher, producing elegant, long-lived wines with measured acidity.
• Rioja Alavesa – limestone soils and a Basque influence; aromatic, structured reds and expressive whites.
• Rioja Oriental – warmer and drier, producing fuller, fruitier wines from Garnacha and Tempranillo.
Tempranillo remains the backbone of red Rioja, often blended with Garnacha, Graciano or Mazuelo. For whites, Viura (Macabeo) dominates, but Garnacha Blanca, Tempranillo Blanco and Malvasía Riojana are on the rise. Oak remains integral with Rioja’s classification Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva defined by barrel and bottle ageing — but a new generation of producers are looking at oak as part of the process rather than being the main ingredient.
Rioja remains rooted in tradition, oak barrels, long ageing and Tempranillo’s easy charm, yet its future looks refreshingly diverse. Producers are exploring higher vineyards, organic farming and indigenous whites that once lingered in obscurity. Garnacha Blanca and Tempranillo Blanco now stand beside Viura; red producers are emphasising terroir more than ever.
As these five wines demonstrate, the conversation around Rioja and Spanish wines is no longer just about oak and ageing — it’s about altitude, freshness and identity. Spain’s most famous region hasn’t lost its soul; it’s simply open to new ideas and techniques and rather than just red wines a few of them are beautifully white.
Creaciones Exeo, Cifras Blanco 2021
Cifras Blanco comes from Garnacha Blanca vines in Rioja Alavesa, made by Bodegas Exeo. It’s a straw-gold white with citrus and stone-fruit aromas, a hint of fennel and saline minerality. Lees ageing builds texture, while restrained oak keeps the focus on fruit. It’s proof that Rioja’s whites can rival northern Spain’s Albariños for freshness yet still deliver richness and depth. Great with roast chicken, monkfish or a soft goat’s cheese. Available from R&H Wines at £26 per bottle.
Bodegas Aldonia
Made entirely from old-vine Garnacha, Aldonia 100 captures Rioja’s red-fruit charm with a floral lift and a supple palate. It’s bright and modern, with raspberry, cherry and a whisper of spice from brief barrel ageing. This bottle sits at the crossroad between classic and contemporary Rioja. A lighter, juicier Garnacha that still has a regional identity. Pair with lamb chops, grilled vegetables or charcuterie. Available from Tanners Wines at £21.50 per bottle.
Ramón Bilbao Crianza 2022
No Rioja feature feels complete without Ramón Bilbao. Their 2022 Crianza exemplifies the region’s best-known style: pure Tempranillo aged in American oak for vanilla warmth and soft spice. Expect ripe black fruit, balsamic notes and supple tannins. This wine is a polished, reliable expression of what “Crianza” means. Try with roasted peppers, mushroom risotto or a classic Sunday roast. Available at Tesco’s at £11 per bottle.
Torre de Oña Finca Martelo 2019
Finca Martelo is a flagship single-vineyard wine from Torre de Oña, part of the La Rioja Alta group, produced only in exceptional vintages. This wine reflects the character of old vines many over 60 years old from the cooler, limestone soils of Rioja Alavesa at around 630 metres altitude. The blend is 95% Tempranillo with small amounts of Mazuelo, Garnacha and Viura, harvested in mid-October and aged for 24 months in oak (80% American, 20% French) before bottling in April 2022. There are aromas of redcurrants, raspberries, notes of vanilla and spicy vanilla, there are smooth tannins and a long elegant finish. Excellent with roast lamb, duck or hard cheeses. Available from Majestic at £30 per bottle.
La Multa Albilla Sobre Lías 2023
Not Rioja, but fascinating alongside it. From Manchuela in central Spain, La Multa’s Albilla spends months on its lees (“sobre lías”), giving texture and gentle creaminess. This is made by Norrel Robertson (no relation) nicknamed, ‘El Escocés Volante’ – The Flying Scotsman. Albilla de Manchuela was a variety that was disappearing but Norel has proved there is more to this grape than maybe people thought. It offers crisp citrus and orchard-fruit aromas that evolve into almond and brioche notes from lees contact. Wonderful with seafood pasta, lemon sole or creamy shellfish dishes. Available from Laithwaites at £10.99 per bottle.
Flor de San Martín Garnacha Blanca 2024
Also from outside Rioja, Navarra’s Flor de San Martín Garnacha Blanca demonstrates the power of altitude. Vineyards at over 600 metres lend this wine an extra snap of acidity and aromatic lift. Expect bright pear and citrus fruit, wild herbs and a mineral edge — the same grape as Cifras Blanco, expressed through cooler terrain. Try this with ceviche, sushi or a light Mediterranean salad. Available from Laithwaites at £9.99 per bottle.
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