Every summer seems to have its drink, writes James Robertson. There have been years dominated by Aperol Spritz, the enduring popularity of gin and tonic, and more recently a growing appreciation of lighter, lower-alcohol aperitifs. Yet one of the finest summer drinks has been quietly waiting in the wings for generations—White Port.
For many, Port is synonymous with winter evenings, roaring fires and Christmas cheese boards. It is an understandable assumption, but one that overlooks the remarkable versatility of one of Portugal’s greatest wine styles. White Port, produced from indigenous white grape varieties in the spectacular Douro Valley, is an altogether different experience: vibrant, aromatic and wonderfully refreshing.
Made from grapes such as Malvasia Fina, Viosinho, Gouveio and Rabigato, White Port can range from dry to sweet, although the drier styles have become increasingly popular as the foundation for elegant aperitifs. Chilled and served over ice, they reveal delicate notes of citrus, orchard fruits, almonds and wild flowers, balanced by the characteristic freshness that makes them so appealing during warmer months.
The growing appreciation of White Port has been championed by many of the Douro’s most respected producers, each bringing its own style and personality to the category.
Cockburn’s White Port (Tesco £13.95) is an excellent introduction to the style. Established in 1815, Cockburn’s is renowned for producing approachable, fruit-driven Ports, and its White Port reflects that heritage with bright citrus flavours, soft stone fruits and a fresh, balanced finish. It is particularly well suited to the classic Port & Tonic.
Churchill’s Dry White Port (Tanners £29.50) offers a drier, more contemporary interpretation. Founded in 1981 by Johnny Graham, Churchill’s has built a reputation for elegant, food-friendly Ports with freshness at their core. Its Dry White Port displays vibrant citrus notes, hints of herbs and minerality, making it an outstanding aperitif when served well chilled or paired with seafood, olives and salted almonds.
For those seeking greater complexity, Niepoort Dry White Port (Lockett Brothers £22) is widely regarded as one of the benchmarks of the style. Produced by one of Portugal’s most innovative family-owned wine houses, it combines freshness with remarkable depth, offering flavours of citrus peel, nuts, white flowers and subtle spice. It is equally enjoyable served neat or mixed into an exceptionally refined Port & Tonic.
Long before spritzes became fashionable across Europe, Portuguese cafés and riverside terraces were serving White Port mixed with tonic water over ice. The combination is effortlessly simple yet remarkably elegant. The gentle sweetness of the Port softens the quinine bitterness of the tonic, while citrus garnish enhances the wine’s natural freshness. A slice of orange is traditional, although lemon, grapefruit or a sprig of rosemary each bring their own character.
The result is a drink with considerably more complexity than its modest ingredients might suggest—refreshing enough for a summer lunch yet sufficiently sophisticated to serve before dinner.
White Port’s versatility extends well beyond the glass. Dry styles pair beautifully with oysters, grilled prawns, smoked salmon, charcuterie and salted almonds, while richer examples complement soft cheeses, pâtés and fruit-based desserts. It is equally at home at a garden party, a leisurely picnic or simply enjoyed on a shaded terrace as the evening begins to cool.
This summer, instead of reaching automatically for another gin and tonic or glass of rosé, consider pouring a chilled White Port. Whether you prefer the fruit-forward character of Cockburn’s, the crisp elegance of Churchill’s or the layered complexity of Niepoort, there is a style to suit every palate and every occasion.
The Classic Port & Tonic
Ingredients
- 50ml White Port (Cockburn’s, Churchill’s Dry White, or Niepoort Dry White)
- 100ml premium tonic water
- Plenty of ice
- Slice of orange, lemon or pink grapefruit
- Fresh rosemary or mint (optional)
Method
Fill a large wine glass with fresh ice. Pour over the White Port, top with chilled tonic water and stir gently. Garnish with your chosen citrus and herbs. The drink is simple to make but wonderfully sophisticated, allowing the character of the White Port to shine through.
White Port remains one of the wine world’s most underrated treasures. As the days grow longer and warmer, it offers a refreshing reminder that some of the finest summer drinks are not the newest trends, but timeless classics waiting to be rediscovered.
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