Since opening in the summer of 2025, Wild Goose has been a popular draw to Aberdeen’s Union Terrace, offering a cosy atmosphere and views overlooking Union Terrace Gardens. But, how does the food measure up? Grant Dickie pays a visit to try their evening small plates offering.
In a prime location on the corner of Aberdeen’s iconic city centre gardens, where Union Terrace meets the Granite Mile, perches Wild Goose. The cafe bar offers brunch, small plates, coffee and cocktails, all while priding itself on sourcing local where possible and that shows in the 20 Aberdeen and Shire suppliers, six regional and further six Scottish suppliers.
Sat below the soft glow of moon-like pendant lights and the green of many a plant, we perused the menu and – even though it is a curated list – realised we were going to struggle to choose. We liked the sound of everything. Following the menu’s suggestion, and since we were here for dinner, we opted for five plates between two diners, breaking our choices down to best sample what was on offer: one seafood, two meat, one cheese and one plant-based.
First, we were brought the crispy gnocchi tossed in pesto with vegan feta and chestnut purée. This dish was delicate with slight nuttiness from the chestnut purée, but with a subtle punch of flavour from the pesto.
Next up was the hot smoked salmon toast featuring Ugie hot smoked salmon, capers, gherkins, wholegrain mustard mayo and pickled shallots on toasted house focaccia. This was an early favourite! Light and fresh tasting with a comforting smoke flavour and zingy mustard mayo and gherkin. This would be a good palate cleanser between two rich dishes.
The 100-Mile Cheeseboard for one came with a trio of Scottish artisanal cheeses sourced from within 100 miles of the venue and was served with olives, honey, balsamic onion chutney, crackers and warm focaccia. The cheese selection was varied including one hard cheese, a brie and a blue cheese; none of which were too strong if you are not a fan of really strong cheese, but all still with individual flavour. It was designed for one, but was the perfect amount to be shared between two if you have three or four other dishes.
The penultimate dish was the crispy pork belly served with pickled fennel and wholegrain mustard slaw and celeriac purée. This dish was generous in the serving of pork belly, I was expecting a few small cubes between us, but there was a decent-sized slice each! I’m always picky with my pork belly, it has to be crisped properly on the outside while rendering the fat so it is not chewy, and the chef got it spot on. It was rounded off well with the pickled slaw and gentle celeriac purée.
Finally we come to the Cairngorms venison loin with chestnut purée, charred shallot and a red wine and cranberry reduction. One word, divine. The venison was cooked perfectly and was full of flavour, pairing well with the rich reduction and the tang of the charred shallot. A great dish to end on!
Credit: Conor Gault
The plates did not come all at once, but in stages, which curbed the urge to dive in and devour everything too quickly while also creating more of a flavour journey, starting with the lighter and brighter flavours and moving to the stronger and richer.
Having visited on a Saturday evening we also enjoyed some live acoustic music from Ellen Bain, which just added to the cosy and relaxed atmosphere.
While you are here I urge you to pay a visit to the toilets. I know, odd, but bear with me. When Wild Goose was fitting out the unit, they restored the old Victorian toilets that once served the Gardens, maintaining a slice of the city’s history. And they are beautiful! The old gent’s loos now play host to an event space. Eagle-eyed subscribers to the magazine may recognise these from the August 2025 issue of Scottish Field featuring author Suzy Edge, it being one of these toilets that Suzy posed on for the photoshoot.
If you are local to Aberdeen or just visiting, I suggest you pop into Wild Goose to try their brunch or evening offerings for yourself. But, I would suggest you book; it is a popular spot after all. Also, keep your eyes peeled for the opening of the downstairs bar area, offering drinks and bao buns from How Bao Now.
For more information or to book visit https://wild-goose.co.uk/
If you missed the August 2025 issue, back issues can be ordered here: https://www.mymagazinesub.co.uk/scottish-field/back-issues/
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