Tucked away on Dumbarton Road in Glasgow’s West End, Tusco is delivering modern Italian dining that feels both stylish and welcoming.
Formerly known as Eighty-Eight, the restaurant has recently rebranded with a new Italian-inspired concept focused on sharing plates, handmade pasta and great cocktails.
Eighty-Eight had already earned up a loyal following for its contemporary small plates – and rightly so. I ate there last year and was blown away.
But fans will be thrilled to hear this recent transition is a thoughtful reinvention rather than a complete departure from what we know and love.
Credit: Marco Cornelli
The restaurant has retained the warmth and neighbourhood charm that made Eighty-Eight popular in the first place, but the menu feels more focused now. It’s polished and cohesive, giving Tusco a clearer personality.
One of Tusco’s greatest strengths is its atmosphere, which manages to feel both energetic and intimate at the same time.
The tiny open kitchen sits at the front of the restaurant looking out onto the street, where just two chefs work in constant motion, calmly plating dishes while the room buzzes around them.
Low lighting, closely placed tables, and warm interiors give the place a cosy, hidden-away feel that perfectly suits.
The meal began with a focaccia served alongside an incredibly moreish herby butter, with strong notes of basil, and rich extra virgin olive oil. It arrived warm, perfectly airy inside with a crisp golden crust.
The heirloom tomato dish with basil, pine nuts, and courgette tasted like summer on a plate. Fresh, vibrant, and delicately balanced, it was a masterclass in handling uncomplicated ingredients with care.
Equally impressive in its simplicity was a fantastic asparagus dish. Perfectly cooked spears of white asparagus, coated in a whey and lemon butter sauce and served with a wild garlic pistachio pesto, and broad beans, it was bursting with flavour.
The standout pasta course for me was undoubtedly the cavatelli with vodka sauce and pecorino. Topped with burrata, it was rich and hearty without feeling heavy.
The ricotta and egg yolk raviolo with a pea velouté and crispy pancetta was cooked well. Cutting into the raviolo released a rich golden yolk to create a velvety sauce, while the pancetta added a salty hit. The pangrattato (a savory, toasted topping made from stale bread, olive oil, and garlic) brought some much welcomed texture. But I think the dish overall lacked a hint of seasoning.
To finish was the pork loin with extra virgin olive oil mash. The pork was tender and full of flavour while sundried tomatoes dotted around the plate brought the whole thing together.
The desserts were every bit as impressive as the savoury courses, particularly the tiramisu, which may well be one of the best I’ve had in Glasgow.
Crucially avoiding the overly sweet heaviness that often dulls the dessert, it had a perfect hit of booze and a lingering coffee flavour. Needless to say it disappeared from the table within minutes.
The cherry panna cotta was equally memorable – silky and gently set, with the sharp sweetness of the cherries cutting through the creaminess.
What makes Tusco stand out in Glasgow’s crowded restaurant scene is its confidence in simplicity. It succeeds because it avoids overcomplication and the dishes feel thoughtful.
It’s one of the city’s most exciting openings for me this year, managing to be sophisticated while remaining approachable – the perfect place for shared plates and lingering glasses of wine late into the evening.
Read more Reviews here.
Subscribe to read the latest issue of Scottish Field.
TAGS