Morag Bootland visits The Spence at Gleneagles Townhouse to check out the updated dinner menu created by new executive chef, Elliot Hill.
There’s no denying that the surroundings of The Spence restaurant within Gleneagles Townhouse heighten expectation. You’d be forgiven for expecting nothing short of the finest examples of Scotland’s larder to be served up beneath the elaborately decorated domed ceiling of this former bank building with its impressive marble pillars and swathes of velvet seating.
Thankfully, new executive chef, Elliot Hill who has moved to The Spence from five-star The Chester Grosvenor Hotel has found ample inspiration for his seasonal menu in Scotland’s larder. Think signature dishes like onion soup with truffled Anster cheese, halibut ‘Cullen Skink’ with smoked haddock, potato and seaweed, a very special venison dish (more on this later) and a heather honey baked Alaska with whisky, oats and pistachio nuts.
Ensconced by the fire, sipping on Gleneagles own gin, with subtle sweetness and hints of lavender alongside the juniper, we decide we’ll need a bit more time to peruse the menu so order a whipped artichoke dip to tide us over. We don’t regret it for a second as the seeded crackers loaded with the smooth dip, rosemary oil and roasted garlic vanish in a flurry of ums and ahs.
Eventually I plump for west coast scallops to start. The three chunky and perfectly cooked scallops were ably supported by a flavourful chicken crumble (which was so good that I may have considered heading to the pass, plate in hand to ask for more Oliver Twist-style), ribbons of fennel, hazelnuts and a chicken butter sauce. Libby’s haggis fritter came marooned in a pool of deep green parsley sauce, topped with a fried quail’s egg and with the cutest little pickled mushrooms on the side. The rich, meaty haggis was blanketed in perfectly crisp panko breadcrumbs, another great starter.
Firmly back on land for our mains, Libby’s pork tenderloin comes with a slice of perennially wonderful Stornoway black pudding, a tender pork cheek, apple cabbage and mustard. It’s well cooked and a nicely balanced dish. But I wouldn’t have traded it for my Highland venison. It’s an impressive portion with well-seasoned slices of tender loin served with a rich jus and a fruity hedgerow preserve, alongside is a hearty portion of deerstalker pie, crowned with smooth potato puree and filled with rich and tasty minced venison. Nicely buttery roasted rooted veg with a little honey sweetness and sprouting winter broccoli with roasted garlic ensure we’re getting out five a day on the side.
At this stage we’re impressed with the new menu, the produce and the service. Dessert, it would seem, has even more to live up to. Struggling to choose, we decide to share two puds. The first is a ginger cake with caramelised apple and Calvados. It’s warm, rich and a bit sticky, ideal for anyone who loves a sponge pudding. It’s a great dessert, but it is perhaps unfairly overshadowed by a downright fabulous one. The pecan slice with blood orange and milk ice-cream is a triumph. There’s something here for everyone with crunchy pecans and walnuts, tart blood orange, rich chocolate and a creamy ice-cream that allows the flavours of the main event to really shine.
Sitting by the fire we reflect on a meal that has undoubtedly lived up to its salubrious surroundings. The restaurant is packed on the Thursday evening when we visit and its not hard to see why. I, for one, can’t wait to see what the changing seasons bring to Hill’s impressive menu at The Spence.
For more information, visit gleneagles.com/townhouse / gleneagles.com/townhouse/eat-drink/the–spence
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