We have all heard the classic wee poem, the one summarising the life and legends of Saint Mungo, the patron saint of Glasgow.
‘Here’s the tree that never grew, / Here’s the bird that never flew, / Here’s the fish that never swam, / Here’s the bell that never rang’.
Well, it’s this tree that serves as the inspiration behind chic city centre restaurant Hazel. The centrepiece of the 100-seater venue, located inside the four-star AC Hotel by Marriott Glasgow, is a life-size hazel tree that gives the restaurant its name, drawing inspiration from the legend of St Mungo.
So the story goes, St. Mungo used the hazel branch to miraculously relight a holy fire after it was extinguished by a group of jealous boys. The tree referred to in the poem is actually depicted as an oak tree in the coat of arms, but popular versions of the story refer to a hazel branch (hence the restaurant’s name).
There are subtle nods to the city’s origin story throughout the pristine eatery just off of George Square, with light fixtures that resemble bells and decorations that allude to the fish and the bird.
The life and legend of St Mungo serve as the inspiration behind the eatery.
When we arrive we are seated underneath the very Instagrammable hazel tree and I am starting to fear that this is going to be yet another case of style over substance. The back story is all well and good, but what I am really here for is to try their new menu and find out if this popular spot is worth the hype.
Our extremely friendly waitress gives us a run down of the menu curated by head chef Jean Paul Giraud, a mix of small plates (which can serve as starters or be shared), larger mains and some choices from the grill.
We opted for the confit duck leg and Orkney scallop to start.
We opt to take the small plates as starters and when they arrive I quickly realise my fears about substance may have been misplaced.
The confit duck leg is falling off the bone and the smooth celeriac purée, sweet roasted fig, redcurrant and port jus perfectly cut through the richness of the dish. It’s a delight. The other dish, a pan seared Orkney scallop, comes with all the usual trimmings, black pudding, chorizo and a red onion jam. It’s nothing to write home about, and at £16 for one scallop, I am not wholly convinced, but it’s enjoyable nonetheless.
For mains there is a good selection and I was very nearly swayed by the dry-aged short rib with creamed potato, candied carrots and grilled shallot after seeing a lady sitting next to us tuck into it gleefully before telling her dining companion it was ‘the best meal she had had for ages’.
Sea bass with a rich chilli and lime butter and tangy caper crushed potatoes.
In the end I went for the sea bass. Perfectly cooked, the flaky fish was served with a rich chilli and lime butter and tangy caper crushed potatoes with sautéed nutmeg spinach. A truly lovely dish with the ideal balance of flavours.
The haunch of Highland venison was pink and tender, served alongside an infamously difficult to get right fondant potato, celeriac purée and a sweet bramble jus. It was delicious. The side dish may have stolen the show however, incredible grilled leeks, slathered in a romesco sauce, with shaved Manchego and cracked hazelnuts.
Given, neither of these dishes are particularly groundbreaking in their flavour combinations but they did make me stop to think, what’s wrong with the classics done well?
Haunch of venison and grilled leeks, slathered in a romesco sauce.
In a sea of exotic ingredients, fancy cooking techniques and wacky fusions, sometimes you can’t beat a good bit of solid cooking with flavours you know and love.
We don’t always have to be trying something ‘new and exciting’, quite often we just want old and a bit boring.
And let me be clear, that is in no way a slight on Hazel. In fact it’s quite the opposite. I enjoyed having a meal where I knew I was going to get exactly what I ordered. There were no unpleasant surprises or random ingredients stuck on the plate for no reason at all other than to create a point of controversy. I enjoyed eating flavours that I know work well together, tried and tested, unfaltering ingredients that sing in harmony.
Because at the end of the day, sometimes you can’t really ask for much more.
Stuck on what to order for dessert, our lovely waitress recommended three to try. The hazelnut coffee financier, milk chocolate mousse, whisky caramel, tablet crumb, vanilla ice cream was exquisite, as was the banoffee cheesecake, which is vying for my dessert of the year top spot. For those who enjoy something a little less sweet, I thoroughly enjoyed the blood orange and rosemary crackling choux with orange curd and citrus whip.
A trio of desserts including banoffee cheesecake.
All in all, Hazel proved me wrong, it’s style and substance. Yes, it is stylish and a bit picture perfect, but it has the food to back it up. After a year packed with restaurant reviews, it was certainly my biggest surprise of 2025.
In a world of rage baiting, division, and constant controversy, I relished sitting down in the comfortable, expected bliss of the classics. So thank you Hazel, for proving a welcomed reprieve from the unknown.
Hazel, AC Hotel Glasgow, 65 John St, Glasgow G1 1JP.
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