From the gently rolling hills of Dumfriesshire, my husband often points out the peaks of the Lake District in the not-too-far distance. Yet, in my seven years of living in Scotland, I had never made it to that iconic north-western English region.
The Haweswater Reservoir may not be the first body of water that comes to mind when you think of the Lakes or the Lake District, but after finally spending 78 hours there, I can confidently say it should be.
Breath-takingly beautiful with some of the best views of serene undisturbed nature, Haweswater Reservoir is a must-visit for any nature-loving person. Even if you are a leisurely hiker like myself, there is so much to enjoy in a casual walk along the lake or in the forested nature reserve surrounding it.
And tucked away from any main roads with glorious views and the grey bricks you often find in houses in that region is Haweswater Hotel. The only residence within the nature reserve.
The Hotel
Built in the late 1930s to replace an old inn that had been flooded during the building of the reservoir, Haweswater Hotel now stands as a fusion of time, blending modern comforts with its Art Deco charm in the finer details.
Not only does Haweswater artfully blend history with the present, but it also finds that border between a luxury atmosphere and countryside boutique. The bedrooms are timelessly decorated without feeling outdated. The restaurant is comfortable and charming while the food served is creatively plated and the quality you might find on white tablecloths.
Besides the restaurant, there are a few other common spaces available including a sitting room with a few chess boards, fireplace and large windows with views of the lake and park, and a small but well-stocked bar with several different types of seating.
Throughout all these spaces, you will find warm colours and layered décor echoing its Art Deco nature.
The Room
With an old fashioned room key in hand, we headed up the stairs to the first floor, down a somewhat narrow historically decorated hallway and passed a bookcase full of modern novels and books.
Spacious, bright and warmly decorated; that is how I would describe High Street – our room for the weekend with phenomenal views of the reservoir from two angles.
Views of the Haweswater Reservoir from High Street’s window
Like the rest of the hotel, the room confidently combined the best of both words. Timeless elements with wooden furniture that wouldn’t look out of place any time in the last 100 or so years and a rich, warm colour scheme with modern luxuries to make the most of your stay. The only thing missing from my point of view was a plush pair of slippers – and possibly a mini fridge.
The bathroom was the most outwardly modern area of room featuring a standing shower with great water pressure – hallelujah! – and local soaps and shampoos from Pure Lakes. My biggest thrill was the Geranium & Ylang Ylang Keratin Silken Conditioner as my dry hair thrives on moisture and the 2-in-1 shampoo and bodywash that many hotels supply just won’t cut it.
Dining & Drink
Haweswater Hotel’s restaurant brings elegant countryside charm with thoughtfully paired flavours and an Art Deco flair.
For my starter, I had Hand-Dived Scallops (£18) with celeriac, crispy chicken skin and truffle with a hot chicken gravy to pour over. These were phenomenal. Cooked perfectly so they were slightly crisp on the outside and incredibly juicy on the inside. The crispy chicken skin added a nice contrast to the delicate scallops while the gravy, truffle and celiac combined added dimension in flavour. It took a little will power not to ask for a second serving.
My husband had Confit Duck Terrine (£12) with fig chutney served on brioche and topped with parsley. I wish I could tell you more about the flavours of this but he had devoured it before I could ask in detail but I took that as a sign of approval.
Confit Duck Terrine
For my main I had Cumbrian Lamb Wellington (£28) with pumpkin puree and rosemary jus. This was cooked medium with a delightfully flaky crust and a flavoursome herb stuffing. The bright sweetness of the pumpkin puree balanced the savouriness of herb encrusted lamb shoulder. My one slight complaint was that the cutlery wasn’t ideal for cutting the al dente carrot.
Lamb Wellington
My husband had the Beef Bourguignon (£25) served with pancetta crisp and mashed potatoes and stated that it was a hearty dish with tender beef. The crispy pancetta adding dimension and layer to a classic dish.
No matter how full I am, I never skip pudding. It’s a rule I think many of us live by. There were many delicious options to chose from including Sticky Toffee Pudding – which I was told had been invented in the Lake District – and a good Tete de Moine served with frozen grapes and drunken fig.
However, my eyes, heart and tastebuds were set on the Hibiscus Poached Rhubarb Tart (£14) with a pistachio sponge and served with ice cream and a little custard. This was the perfect closing dish; a fresh and bright sweet treat that wasn’t too cloying or rich served with gorgeous butterscotch ice cream.
(A tasting menu is also available for dinner Tuesday to Saturday at £90pp.)
On our second evening, we had eaten so much during the day we weren’t hungry so we decided on a drink in the bar which was well-stocked with wine, beer and spirits. And in the spirit of our trip, I tried The Lakes One blended whisky which was smooth and gently sweet with stone fruit and crisp apple notes with a hint of cocoa.
We had cooked breakfast in the hotel both mornings which was perfect to set us up for the day exploring the lakes. My husband went for the full breakfast and devoured every last morsel. The first morning I had the smoked herring with eggs which was a tad too salty for me at that time in the morning, though I still enjoyed every bite. The next morning I had eggs with smoked salmon and that was perfect.
Haweswater Reservoir
Haweswater Hotel on its own is a gorgeous hotel, but the Haweswater Reserve is without a doubt its crown jewel. Set within a caldera volcano succession, the small reservoir makes up for size with its breath taking picturesque beauty. Whether you go for a drink along the shore or hikes in its hills, there is something to do for many different types of ability.
What else to do in the area on a whirlwind weekend away
-
Visit the other lakes:
Queen Adelaide’s Hill Viewpoint, Lake Windermere
-
Lowther Castle & Gardens
Lovely castle ruins to explore with a café and shop on site.
-
Visit film sites from Withnail & I
Iconic phone booth from the film with surprises inside.
-
Visit Farrer’s Tea & Coffee House in Kendal
A tea and coffee shop dating back to the 19th century set in a historic 18th-century listed building.
Read more Reviews here.
Subscribe to read the latest issue of Scottish Field.
TAGS