Review: Five March, Glasgow

Review: Five March, Glasgow

It’s not much to look at from the outside, in fact, blink and you might miss it. But a small door and tiny sign on Elderslie Street in Glasgow give way to one of the best restaurants I have tried in the city.

When I arrive outside the white washed building of Five March on a miserable Friday night, I have to do a double take to make sure I am in the right place. It’s almost as if it’s making a concerted effort to conceal itself.

I have heard much about this buzzing Glasgow eatery, an under-appreciated staple of the city’s dining scene. But it’s so unassuming from the street I almost walk right past it. Only a miniscule sign on the top left of the building gives it away.

Blink and you might miss this fantastic staple of the Glasgow food scene.

And it’s almost a shock when I walk inside and am immediately hit with the stark contrast in the atmosphere from standing outside on the quiet, dark street.

It’s teeming inside, with even the few stools, at a very well stocked bar, packed. Not hugely surprising since nearly everyone I speak to who has been to Five March raves about their imaginative cocktails.

The artwork is minimal and modern, there is an abundance of greenery and fairy lights hanging from the ceiling, and you can almost see into the kitchen tucked away in the back corner of the room next to the bar.

Plates are small-ish and made for sharing. Five March was onto small plates before it was trendy, before it had gripped the Scottish dining scene. Everyone at the table eating together and sharing food has been at the heart of the restaurant since it began eight years ago.

The interiors are minimal but modern.

We get stuck into a few snacks to start – a bowl of incredibly more-ish smoked almonds and Freedom bakery sourdough (I can’t go anywhere that has Freedom on the menu and not order it) served with a rich brie de meaux, dripping with a chilli honey.

First up was a piece of incredible coley, with crispy skin and a devilled crab butter. Smooth, brightly coloured and perfectly rich, it might just be the best sauce I have ever eaten. Sweet apple, kohlrabi and salty nori complimented the fish superbly.

Coley, devilled crab butter, apple, kohlrabi, nori

Perfectly cooked oyster mushroom skewers, rich and meaty, accompanied by a sunflower seed satay arrived next, followed by the famous fried chicken sandwich. Served on a golden and glossy toasted brioche bun, packed with crunchy, shredded hispi cabbage, pickled ginger and a katsu sauce – it was really the highlight of the meal for me. Many attempt fried chicken, but not many succeed. Thankfully the team at Five March have got it spot on.

Fried chicken sandwich, Katsu, shredded hispi, pickled ginger.

The salt and pepper pork belly had the most perfectly cooked crackling, crunchy and salty, which paired perfectly with the plum mustard sauce it sat on. Topped with some sichuan cucumber, which cut through the richness of the dish, it’s easy to see why almost everyone had a portion of this on their table.

Salt & pepper pork belly, plum mustard, chard, sichuan cucumber.

Some fried baby spuds smothered in a delicious aioli (something I normally have a strong aversion to) rounded off the meal perfectly.

I was tempted by both of the puddings – a burnt honey panna cotta, roasted figs and white balsamic, and a dark chocolate and orange delice – but opted for the latter. It was simple and perfect, topped with a hazelnut praline, giving the whole thing some texture.

Five March is serving up seriously good food – the flavour combinations are creative without being overly complicated.

It’s a place for long overdue catch ups with friends, or big celebrations (without the formality that comes with such things). Five March doesn’t take itself too seriously. It’s about good food, great cocktails and the company of others. It’s easy to see why so many Glasgow natives rave about this unassuming, little restaurant.

The menu changes often, so no two visits will be the same. What better reason to start planning my next trip.

 

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