Review: Festive dining at Gleneagles Townhouse

WHETHER you like it or not, it’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas. You can try to resist, or you can go with the old adage that ‘if you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em’. And to be honest, stepping through the halo of foliage and mini-plantation of Christmas trees – complete with golden deer and sweet squirrels, illuminated by what must be a million fairy lights – into the foyer at Gleneagles Townhouse you’d have to be a certified Scrooge not to feel a warm festive glow in your heart.

I’m here to get my Christmas on in style at The Spence, with a trial run of their new festive menu. We’re grateful to have a seat by the fire on a chilly evening in the capital and even more so when we’re offered a glass of Champagne to kick off the festive fun.

Starters of rich Glen & Co oak smoked salmon, accompanied by sour cream and dill oil and a cucumber cup filled with caviar made a great start. The salmon was meaty with a subtle smoky flavour and its creamy and fresh plate-fellows provided the perfect foil its oily richness.

The main event is the turkey, and this one comes in a round with a generous portion of stuffing. It’s perfectly cooked and served up with the obligatory pigs in blankets, baby carrots and parsnips, a couple of rectangles of roast potato and a fabulously rich and moreish gravy. On the side there’s a hearty portion of brussels sprouts generously fried up with smoked pancetta and salty parmesan cheese. My only minor quibble was the cranberry sauce, which was a little on the tart-side, making the gravy a clear winner in the battle of the sauces.

So far, so good, but I’m feeling a little tight around the waist band ahead of dessert and unlike on Christmas Day at home when we’re able to sneak off and change into loose fitting lounge pants ahead of knuckling down to Christmas Pudding, I’m unable to let it all hang out. Thankfully there’s time for a short break before the arrival of my Townhouse Christmas Pudding topped with a nutty crumb and flamed at the table. It’s rich with fruit and a bit boozy into the bargain and comes with a light brandy sauce. My companions chocolate tart is met with murmurs of approval that involved crisp, buttery pastry and a smooth and moreish chocolate topping.

If you’re not quite ready to go all in on the Christmas food, you could opt for a heritage beetroot, wild game terrine or crab starter; venison, seabass or pearl barley risotto mains or clementine and calamansi chocolate ganache, custard tart or a selection of seasonal cheeses to finish. You can also top and tail your meal with celeriac velouté and sourdough and mini mince pies. When it comes to picking a pud, be sure to take a look at the glorious dessert trolley. It may not make your decision any easier, but it is certainly a sight to behold!

Gleneagles Townhouse’s Festive Menu is priced at £85 for four courses.

www.gleneagles.com/townhouse/festive

Gleneagles Townhouse, No. 39 St Andrews Square, EDINBURGH EH2 2AD