I read a lot of restaurant reviews, it comes with the territory I suppose.
But a few years ago I came across one in particular, by famed critic Grace Dent, of a wee Glasgow restaurant on the corner of Great Western Road named Brett.
She lauded it as ‘possibly Glasgow’s best restaurant’ (as compliments go, it doesn’t get much better) and it’s fair to say it stuck with me.
Admittedly it has taken me longer, much longer, than I would have liked to get around to sampling Brett for myself. With Glasgow’s ever expanding food scene, my list of places to get to is getting out of control.
But it’s recently had a bit of a facelift and it seemed like the perfect time to try out this West End favourite.
The little sister of the Michelin starred Cail Bruich just down the road, the bar is set pretty high for Brett before diners have even walked through the door.
‘Sand carrot’ with saffron and kumquat
But chef Colin Anderson, formerly of Restaurant Gordon Ramsay in London, is clearly up to the task, earning Brett Michelin-recommended status in the prestigious guide last year.
Inspired by modern fine dining and taking influence from Colin’s travels and work with renowned chefs across the world, his menus balance classical cooking with high-quality seasonal ingredients, all of which is served from an incredible open kitchen.
The 36-cover restaurant has a relaxed, neighbourhood feel, with the largest table hosting eight people. Industrial-style materials are used throughout, including exposed brickwork, stainless steel ceilings and raw linen napkins on table settings.
Diners can sit and watch the chefs at work on counter style seating around the open kitchen. But no matter where you sit in the restaurant, you can see directly into the tiny cooking area where a small team of chefs work in perfect harmony together.
We are seated on the mezzanine level and start with a bright pink seasonal spritz cocktail with Ketel One vodka, rhubarb and rose wine, before diving into the chef’s menu – a very reasonable £85 per person for six courses.
First up is the tempura Orkney scallop, with a crispy potato. Battering a delicate scallop might seem like sacrilege at first, but don’t fear, this is not another gimmicky take on fish and chips. The batter is incredibly light and fluffy and a velvety tartare sauce provides the perfect acidity to cut through the richness. Simplicity at its best.
Chef Colin personally delivered the next dish to our table, a ‘sand carrot’ topped with saffron and kumquat and an incredibly moreish salt and vinegar kale. Hard to believe so much flavour can ooze from the humble carrot, but here lies Colin’s magistery.
His delicate touch is also on show with the beef tartare. Served with ethical foie gras, and lapsang souchong, bursts of fresh apple break up the richness of this lovely beef.
Aged raw beef with ethical foie gras
Our wonderful waiter Callum, who has carefully talked us through all the dishes, tells us the next course, a mushroom linguini, is a firm favourite with staff and customers alike. So popular in fact, when Colin previously tried to axe it from the menu he was met with up-roar from the locals. And after tasting it I can understand why.
I could punch out an endless list of superlatives to try and describe how incredible this little pasta dish is, but it still wouldn’t do it justice. Fresh linguini cooked al-dente and tossed in XO-infused mushroom sauce, topped with a salty Cantabrian anchovy, shards of crispy leek, and 36-month-aged parmesan, it is pure delight. Best dish of the evening? Yes. Best dish I can remember eating in Glasgow? Absolutely.
Mushroom linguini
Last up was a pink lamb saddle with cavolo nero, green tomatoes and a green peppercorn sauce. The saddle was good, but the crispy lamb breast served alongside it was the real standout.
Saddle of lamb with green peppercorn sauce
Eyes bulging from my head, I looked on with envy as we saw the diners next to us order an enormous tarte tatin to share, while our little rhubarb pudding arrived.
As I looked down at the bowl of Yorkshire fruit served with a crème fraîche mousse, crispy milk and pulled toffee alarm bells were going off – surely this was all going to be too sweet.
Yorkshire rhubarb with crème fraîche mousse, crispy milk and pulled toffee.
I was horribly wrong of course, who am I to question the workings of a magician. The rhubarb was soft and buttery, while the shards of crispy milk were an ingenious addition.
I owe Grace Dent a huge thank you it seems. Had her fabulous review of Brett not niggled away at the back of my head for two years, I might never have gotten around to trying it.
Colin Anderson has created something really special with Brett. It was worth the wait for me, but if it’s on your list of places to try, there is no time like the present – go, go go!
Brett, 321 Great Western Rd, Glasgow G4 9HR. Dinner Tuesday – Saturday, three-course menu priced at £59, with a wine pairing for £40, alongside the chef’s menu. On Fridays and Saturdays, Brett is also open for lunch, offering a two course or three course menu, priced at £32 and £42.
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