In 2006 a dinner by Scotland’s most celebrated chef was held at the iconic House for an Art Lover in Glasgow to celebrate Restaurant Andrew Fairlie’s second Michelin star. Twenty years on that charitable dinner is being staged once more to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the famous Charles Rennie Mackintosh-designed building’s reopening in 1996.
In April 2006, chef Andrew Fairlie and his friend and colleague Stephen McLaughlin prepared a meal at House for an Art Lover in Glasgow’s Bellahouston Park to celebrate their restaurant’s second Michelin star.
Although Fairlie passed away six years ago, McLaughlin – who is now head chef at his friend’s eponymous restaurant at Gleneagles – is staging a one-night-only dinner on April 21st to mark the thirtieth anniversary of the iconic venue’s renovation, and the 25th anniversary of Restaurant Andrew Fairlie’s second Michelin star.
Scottish Field editor Richard Bath spoke to Stevie McLaughlin and House for an Art Lover director Garry Sanderson about what will be a landmark evening.
It must be lovely to continue your association with such an iconic building, and an honour to be invited back to cook 20 years on from you and Andrew cooking dinner there in 2006 to celebrate your second star?
Stevie: Very much so! Garry got halfway through asking the question and the answer was an immediate ‘yes!’. Garry and I go way back, and I’d always want to be involved in any opportunity to work with him.
You’re putting together a bespoke menu – what will you be cooking and why? And do any of the ingredients have a symbolic importance to you or to House for An Art Lover?
Stevie: We’ll be cooking some dishes from the original menu, as well as some that we offer on the current Restaurant Andrew Fairlie menu – so we’ll be bringing a little of Restaurant Andrew Fairlie as it is today to the event. We’re also proud to be bringing back an actual course that we cooked on that night 20 years ago, which is Pineapple Carpaccio. We’ve evolved it slightly, but the essence of the dish is exactly the same.
Interestingly, this dish created a challenge at the original event, because we had freezer problems on the day. With this in mind, the only change we’ve made is that we’ve removed the frozen element of it! And, of course, any Restaurant Andrew Fairlie collaboration or experience wouldn’t feel the same without the home-smoked lobster.
House for an Art Lover and Gleneagles were both built in similar styles in the early 1900s, and they’re both set in lovely rolling grounds, even if one is rural and the other very urban. Is House for an Art Lover the most inspirational venue at which you’ve staged a pop-up?
Stevie: We’re incredibly fortunate that we get asked to cook in many spectacular venues, and the stunning House for an Art Lover is certainly one of them. It’s an extra special one for us, because of the link we have with the venue, and the personal connection and history we have with Garry. We’re also fortunate that our food travels well, so we can take the majority of our dishes anywhere and serve up the spirit of what we have at Gleneagles in a totally different location.
Your minds will inevitably wander back to that day in 2006 when Andrew was here. He was a larger-than-life chef, who was a memorable man to spend time with.
Stevie: I think the word I’d use to describe it is ‘proud’ rather than anything else. I’m proud, not just of being asked to cook at events like this and being asked to cook again at House for an Art Lover 20 years later, but specifically to come back and cook again with our collaborator and old friend, Garry. It’ll be a fantastic evening of fun, friendship and celebration.
Back in 2006 the hook was Andrew and Stevie’s second star. Why has the collaboration stood the test of time?
Gary: The truth is, Andrew had one star when he first committed to the event, and I did wonder whether, once he achieved his second, he might feel differently. But he was resolute in honouring that commitment, which said a great deal about the kind of man he was.
I had worked as Andrew’s restaurant manager when he won his first star in 1996 at One Devonshire Gardens, and he was an industry hero of mine then, as he still is now. That shared history has always been a big part of why our relationship has remained so strong.
I met Stevie in 1993 when he came to work with Andrew, and we’ve been great friends ever since. What has been especially meaningful to witness is the way he has carried Andrew’s legacy forward with the same passion and talent, but also with the same humility. He always takes the time to share an encouraging word with our team at House for an Art Lover.
For me, that’s why this collaboration has stood the test of time. It’s built on genuine relationships, shared values, and a deep respect for everything Andrew created.
Tell me more about the dinner…
Gary: This evening is both a reflection and a celebration. It marks 20 years since Andrew and Stevie last cooked at the venue, while also forming part of our 30th anniversary here at House for an Art Lover.
At its heart, House for an Art Lover is a charity, so the event also plays an important role in raising vital funds. These will support the ongoing care and maintenance of the building, as well as our wider arts programme, helping us continue to grow and secure the house as a cultural space for years to come.
Given that Andrew was central to the 2006 dinner but is no longer with us, it will be very poignant for both of you …
Stevie: It will be incredibly poignant and reflective for both of us. Even taking part in the photocall gave me a moment to pause and realise just how much time has passed, and to think about Andrew. It’s hard to believe it’s been 20 years since I stood in that room with him, chatting to guests at the end of the night.
Gary: Andrew was a remarkable friend and an exceptional chef, and having Stevie and his team here again brings those memories back very vividly. I’m absolutely delighted that Stevie has agreed to support us for this occasion, and very grateful to him. I know how many demands there are on his time, which makes his involvement all the more meaningful.
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