There are few wine encounters that remain etched in memory as vividly as the wines themselves, writes James Robertson.
Mine came on a flight to Lyon in 2006, bound for a visit to the Rhone to celebrate Marcel Guigal’s being made Decanter Man of the Year. Fate seated me next to Serge Hochar, the late and much-missed spirit of Château Musar.
What unfolded at altitude was less a conversation than a masterclass: Serge spoke of wine as something alive, to be allowed to evolve rather than controlled. His words have coloured every glass of Musar I have had the pleasure of drinking since.
It is within the estate’s Jeune range, first introduced in 2007, that I am most often reminded of that philosophy. Produced from organically farmed vineyards at around 1,000 metres in the Bekaa Valley, these wines are crafted for early drinking.
Fermented in concrete or stainless steel, bottled unfined and unfiltered, they are fresh, vivid and disarmingly pure. If Musar’s flagship releases are symphonies played with patience, the Jeune wines are improvisations: spontaneous, energetic, instantly engaging.
The Jeune Rouge 2021 blends Cinsault, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, fermented in concrete and released barely two years after harvest. It shows a youthful purple hue and exuberant aromas of strawberries, cherries and blueberries, with undertones of black pepper and spice.
The palate is generous yet balanced: supple tannins, juicy fruit and a texture more velvet than grip. Designed for youthful pleasure, it still has the poise to age for several years. Pair it with lamb, tagines or a wedge of Comté and it feels utterly at home.
If the red speaks of Levantine warmth, the Jeune Blanc 2022 captures Bekaa freshness. Viognier lends aromatic lift, Vermentino contributes zip, and Chardonnay underpins the blend with texture. Pineapple, pear and apricot mingle with herbs—basil, thyme, wild fennel.
The palate is mid-weight yet energetic, with a honeyed note that nods to Musar’s great ageworthy whites, here captured in their earliest, most radiant form. Best enjoyed within a few years of release, it is a natural partner to mezze, seafood or simply a shaded terrace on a summer afternoon.
Completing the trio, the Jeune Rosé 2022 is the most delicate expression. Crafted from Cinsault and Mourvèdre in a Provençal style, it gleams salmon-pink in the glass.
Aromas of redcurrants, pomegranate and wild strawberries are lifted by rose petal. The palate is crisp and linear, with a saline edge recalling sea breeze and summer herbs. Effortless and charming, it suits both aperitif hour and the table, particularly with grilled fish or fresh salads.
All three wines available at £17.99 per bottle from various independent wine shops and wholesalers.
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